Making a Hidden Door Status Sensor

The door sensor in its new enclosures. (Credit: Dillan Stock)
A common sight in ‘smart homes’, door sensors allow you to detect whether a door is closed or open, enabling the triggering of specific events. Unfortunately, most solutions for these sensors are relatively bulky and hard to miss, making them a bit of a eyesore. This was the case for [Dillan Stock] as well, who decided that he could definitely have a smart home, yet not have warts sticking out on every single doorframe and door. There’s also a video version of the linked blog post.

These door sensors tend to be very simple devices, usually just a magnet and a reed relay, the latter signaling a status change to the wireless transmitter or transceiver. Although [Dillan] had come across recessed door sensors before, like a Z-wave-based unit from Aeotec, this was a very poorly designed product with serious reliability issues.

That’s when [Dillan] realized that he could simply take the PCB from one of the Aqara T1 door sensors that he already had and stuff them into a similar 20 mm diameter form factor as that dodgy sensor unit. Basically this just stuffs the magnet and PCB from an existing wart-style sensor into a recessed form factor, making it a very straightforward hack, that only requires printing the housings for the Aqara T1 sensor and some intimate time between the door and a drill.

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hackaday.com/2026/02/10/making…

Building a Self-Playing Chess Board Robot

As popular as the game of chess is, it has one massive flaw. This being that it requires two participants, which can be a challenge. Although playing chess on a computer against an AI has been a thing for many decades, it’s hard to beat physical chess boards that give you all the tactile pleasure of handling and moving pieces, yet merging the two is tricky. You can either tell the player to also move the opponent’s pieces, or use a mechanism to do so yourself, which [Joshua Stanley] recently demonstrated in a video.

There are a few ways that you can go about having the computer move and detect the pieces. Here [Joshua] chose to use Hall magnetic sensors to detect the magnets that are embedded in the 3D printed chess pieces as well as their absence. These sensors are mounted to the back side of a PCB which is also the playing field, thus using the silkscreen for the board markings.

For the electromagnet that moves the chess pieces core x/y kinematics were used to move it underneath the PCB, engaging when moving pieces but otherwise deactivated. This is all controlled by an ESP32 MCU, while the computer runs the open-source Stockfish chess engine. As the human player changes piece positions this is detected by the magnet’s presence, with the change input into Stockfish.

As the demonstration at the end of the video shows, it definitely works, yet some issues remain. Ignoring the mistake with making the near-right corners black instead of white, the pieces are large enough that e.g. moving a knight piece between others pushes them to the side, requiring these to be put back in place.

There is also no way for the computer to detect which piece is placed where, which can be incredibly helpful on some commercial self-playing chess boards like this for new players, as well as to detect invalid moves, but this might be on the list for a potential V2 of this build.

Best part of this build is probably the use of a PCB for the playing field, which would allow you to go pretty crazy with custom designs and colors, especially now that some PCB places are offering multi-color silkscreens that allow for custom graphics.

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hackaday.com/2026/02/10/buildi…

The Best USB To VGA Converter For The Job

There are many adapters, dongles, and cables designed for interfacing display standards, and no doubt some of you have them in the glue of your entertainment system or work space. They’re great for standards, but what about something that’s not quite standard? [Stephen] has an arcade cabinet with a CRT that runs at an unusual 336 by 262 pixel resolution. It can be driven as 320 by 240 but doesn’t look great, and even that “standard” resolution isn’t supported by many dongles. He’s shared the story of his path to a unique USB to VGA converter which may have application far beyond this arcade machine.

We follow him on a path of discovery, through RP2040 PIOs, simple resistor ladder DACs, and home-made kernel modules, before he arrives at GUD, a USB display protocol with its own upstreamed Linux kernel driver. It’s designed to be used with a Raspberry PI deriving an LCD or HDMI display, but for his task he implemented the protocol on one of the more expensive STM32 series microcontrollers. The result after several false starts and some fiendish PCB routing is a standalone GUD-based USB-to-VGA converter that delivers perfect 34-bit colour at this unusual resolution, and also presumably others if required. It’s a worthwhile read for the many hints it gives on the subject of driving displays, even if you’re not driving an odd cabinet monitor.

hackaday.com/2026/02/10/the-be…